政大機構典藏-National Chengchi University Institutional Repository(NCCUR):Item 140.119/122598
English  |  正體中文  |  简体中文  |  Post-Print筆數 : 27 |  全文笔数/总笔数 : 113822/144841 (79%)
造访人次 : 51823760      在线人数 : 526
RC Version 6.0 © Powered By DSPACE, MIT. Enhanced by NTU Library IR team.
搜寻范围 查询小技巧：
  • 您可在西文检索词汇前后加上"双引号"，以获取较精准的检索结果
  • 若欲以作者姓名搜寻，建议至进阶搜寻限定作者字段，可获得较完整数据
    •  进阶搜寻
    政大機構典藏 > 文學院 > 歷史學系 > 期刊論文 >  Item 140.119/122598


    请使用永久网址来引用或连结此文件: https://nccur.lib.nccu.edu.tw/handle/140.119/122598


    题名: 「陽剛女」、「陰柔男」：十六、十七世紀英格蘭女性時尚 與性別爭議
    作者: 林美香
    贡献者: 歷史系
    关键词: Sixteenth- and Seventeenth-century England; Cross-dressing; Mix and Match; Clothing; Gender
    十六、十七世紀英格蘭 ; 變裝 ; 混搭; 服飾 ; 性別   
    日期: 2018-05
    上传时间: 2019-03-19 16:25:01 (UTC+8)
    摘要: 約從十六世紀下半葉起至十七世紀上半葉，英格蘭女性流行在上半身混搭男性服飾，跨越了傳統性別與服飾分隔的界線。此行為不但引發時人強烈的批判，也帶動此時期英格蘭文人對性別與服飾的雙重辯論，其高潮是1620年的「陽剛女／陰柔男爭議」（hic mulier/haec vir controversy，或稱「變裝爭議」〔transvestite controversy〕）。本文以歐洲服飾發展歷程，及十六、十七世紀英格蘭法律、經濟與社會特性為背景，討論女性混搭男裝之風興起的原因，並以當時回應此社會現象的文獻與圖像為主要材料，探討當時評論者如何描述及詮釋這類男裝女性（man-clothed women）的行為與樣貌，尤其是1620年爭議中的論述。本文之目的在瞭解十六、十七世紀服飾與性別彼此定義的關係，並指出服飾秩序的建構，其實就是性別秩序的維護；論者也透過論述的過程，重建傳統上下分明的男女關係。
    It became fashionable for English women to adopt masculine attire in their upper bodies during the late sixteenth and early seventeenth centuries, and therefore crossed the traditional divide of the two sexes in their garments. Women`s new style of dress provoked adverse comments during that period, and aroused dual debate fervently on gender and clothing, which climaxed in the hic mulier/ haec vir controversy (or transvestite controversy) in 1620. This article will discuss the reasons behind this peculiar English female fashion, with the considerations of the development of European dress during the medieval and early modern periods, and the legal, economic and cultural characteristics of English society during the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. Then, it focuses on the writings and images of those ＂man-clothed women,＂ especially the debate in 1620, so as to understand the polemists` anxiety and their interpretation of this social phenomenon. As a whole, it intends to explore the relationship between dress and gender, and to inquire how and to what extent, clothing defined gender, and vice versa. Moreover, it investigates the change of themes from clothing to the nature of the female sex in this debate, showing the insistence that traditional identity of male/female or masculinity/femininity should not be confused by changeable fashions.
    關聯: 台大文史哲學報, No.89, pp.151-206
    数据类型: article
    DOI 連結: http://dx.doi.org/10.6258/bcla.201804/PP.0001
    DOI: 10.6258/bcla.201804/PP.0001
    显示于类别:[歷史學系] 期刊論文

    文件中的档案:

    档案 大小格式浏览次数
    128.pdf2408KbAdobe PDF2481检视/开启


    在政大典藏中所有的数据项都受到原著作权保护.


    社群 sharing

    著作權政策宣告 Copyright Announcement
    1.本網站之數位內容為國立政治大學所收錄之機構典藏，無償提供學術研究與公眾教育等公益性使用，惟仍請適度，合理使用本網站之內容，以尊重著作權人之權益。商業上之利用，則請先取得著作權人之授權。
    The digital content of this website is part of National Chengchi University Institutional Repository. It provides free access to academic research and public education for non-commercial use. Please utilize it in a proper and reasonable manner and respect the rights of copyright owners. For commercial use, please obtain authorization from the copyright owner in advance.

    2.本網站之製作，已盡力防止侵害著作權人之權益，如仍發現本網站之數位內容有侵害著作權人權益情事者，請權利人通知本網站維護人員(nccur@nccu.edu.tw)，維護人員將立即採取移除該數位著作等補救措施。
    NCCU Institutional Repository is made to protect the interests of copyright owners. If you believe that any material on the website infringes copyright, please contact our staff(nccur@nccu.edu.tw). We will remove the work from the repository and investigate your claim.
    DSpace Software Copyright © 2002-2004  MIT &  Hewlett-Packard  /   Enhanced by   NTU Library IR team Copyright ©   - 回馈