| Abstract: | 本文旨在以兩本同為八○年代出生的女性作家，書寫母逝前後之飲食文學作品《老派少女購物路線》（2021）及《沒有媽媽的超市》（Crying in H Mart: A Memoir，2022）為例，分析並對照兩文本中作者描寫母親病逝前後，藉由圍繞在母女之間關於飲食與烹煮、聚會等經驗與回憶，進而闡述文本歷經通過儀式（Rite of Passage）理論中的「分離—過渡—融合」三階段。首先，「分離」（separation）階段在於作者書寫飲食記憶時，帶出傷逝之感，另一方面母親生命逐漸消失之時，藉由兩部作品皆由宴客此一非日常事件的籌備，力求為病母帶來希望，作為試圖自「分離」階段中挽救母病的方法；接著，進入「過渡」（transition）階段時，原本母親／病者、女兒／生者的身分特徵在傳承烹飪技藝之時呈現混沌的特質，兩文本中皆有期待或執行「教學—替身—認可」學習廚藝漸進過程，只是在此過程中兩文本具有身分轉換完成或不完成的差異，進而造成認同的困惑；最後，在葬禮後的聚餐與復刻母親拿手料理時彌補了「過渡」階段的不滿，並在「融合」（incorporation）階段中與親友藉由共餐重新產生連結，生者能自親人逝去傷痛中走出同時反思生命的意義。本研究企圖擴展人類學通過儀式理論並詮釋、對照飲食文學中的傷逝主題及其差異，以期與既有的台灣飲食文學對話。
This paper aims to analyze and compare two works of literature written by female authors born in the 1980s, focusing on food literature surrounding the period of before and after their mothers’ passing. The books are The Shopping Route of an Old-Fashioned Girl and Crying in H Mart: A Memoir. By examining the experiences and memories revolving around food, cooking, and gatherings between the mother and daughter, the paper seeks to elucidate the three stages of the Rite of Passage theory: separation, transition, and incorporation.
Firstly, in the separation stage, the authors’ writings on food memories evoke a sense of loss. As their mothers’ lives gradually fade, both works depict the process of preparing for a banquet, an extraordinary event, with the aim of bringing hope to their ailing mothers, attempting to rescue them from the despair of the separation stage.
Next, in the transition stage, the identities of the daughter/ the living and the mother/ the patient become blurred as they pass down culinary skills. Both texts describe the gradual process of learning and teaching, involving “teachingreplacement-acknowledgment.” However, there are differences in whether this identity transition is completed, leading to identity confusion.
Finally, the incorporation stage is addressed through post-funeral gatherings and the recreation of the mothers’ signature dishes, which compensate for the dissatisfaction of the transition stage. This stage involves reconnecting with family through shared meals, allowing the living to move beyond their grief and reflect on the meaning of life.
This study aims to expand the anthropological theory of the Rite of Passage by interpreting and comparing the themes of loss in food literature, hoping to engage in dialogue with existing Taiwanese food literature. |
