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    政大機構典藏 > 文學院 > 歷史學系 > 學位論文 >  Item 140.119/147132
    Please use this identifier to cite or link to this item: https://nccur.lib.nccu.edu.tw/handle/140.119/147132


    Title: 十八世紀英格蘭中階料理的形塑
    The Making of the Middling Cuisine in Eighteenth-Century England
    Authors: 張宇鈞
    Chang, Yu-Chun
    Contributors: 林美香
    陳玉箴

    Lin, May-Shine
    Chen, Yu-Jen

    張宇鈞
    Chang, Yu-Chun
    Keywords: 英格蘭飲食文化
    城市中間階級
    中階料理
    農業革命
    專業市場
    烹飪書
    Culinary culture in England
    Urban middle sort (class)
    Middling cuisine
    Agricultural revolution
    Special markets
    Cookery books
    Date: 2023
    Issue Date: 2023-09-01 15:48:21 (UTC+8)
    Abstract: 18世紀英格蘭面臨諸多變革,圈地運動促進了農業革命與城市發展,日益擁擠的倫敦不僅開闢了新的版圖,更建立以消費為連繫的生活模式。倫敦作為不列顛乃至全歐洲最大的商業城市,匯集了來自各方人流和海內外的奇珍異寶,城市中間階級憑藉著商業與專業才幹開始嶄露頭角,形成一股不以傳統土地收入為根基的利益集團。這一新興群體打破了過去以貴族與平民為主體的二元社會結構,他們批判上流社會貪腐及奢靡的形象,強調體面、有禮、懂得品味且遵守道德規範的態度;同時致力擺脫下層階級的窮困枷鎖,致力於建立舒適文雅的生活內涵。本文以飲食作為觀察這一現象的角度,從大時代的背景乃至個人影響力,拼湊出中間階級如何建立屬於自己的料理哲學,也就是強調經濟實惠但不失風采的中階料理。第一章爬梳不同學者對於中間階級的觀點,探討我們應當如何定義中間階級,而階級作為一種標籤化的概念,又如何連結人類與自然世界,進而成為法制化的分類規範。第二章討論外部環境的變革,從城市版圖、農業革命、公路系統與專業市場共構而成的線性產銷系統,逐一分析物質層面的發展如何成為食物消費的基石。第三章進入家庭內部的烹飪空間,從廚房與飯廳的人與物,探討料理哲學如何養成,不同階級之間透過家政工作或烹飪書,加深彼此認識以淡化階級間的實質隔閡,進而建構所謂中階料理的一體性及其內涵。本文嘗試涉略階級、農業、法律、書籍等研究領域,旨在以多方角度分析料理的生成脈絡,並表明一個文化之所以產生,必須關注其複雜性與不同角色在參與過程中的態度及影響。
    The 18th century brought significant changes to England, driven by the enclosure movement that revolutionized agriculture and spurred urban development. London, a bustling and expanding city, became a centre of consumption, attracting people from all walks of life and showcasing treasures from near and far. During this time, the middle ranks started to assert themselves through business acumen and professional skills, forming a new group that was not solely reliant on traditional land income. This emerging class challenged the existing social structure, criticizing the corruption and extravagance of the upper class. They advocated for values such as decency, refinement, taste, and moral conduct while striving to escape the economic limitations of the lower course and create a comfortable and sophisticated way of life.
    This research focuses on the role of food and dining in understanding this societal transformation. It examines how the middle ranks developed their distinct culinary philosophy, emphasizing affordability without sacrificing an elegant demeanour. By considering the broader historical context and individual influences, this study sheds light on the formation of this culinary philosophy. The first chapter explores different scholarly perspectives on the middle ranks, seeking to define and understand this social group. Class, as a concept, connects human society with the natural world and is reflected in legal and regulatory systems.
    The second chapter investigates the external factors that shaped the culinary landscape. It examines urban expansion, the agricultural revolution, the development of road networks, and the growth of professional markets. These elements contributed to establishing a linear system for producing and distributing food, forming the foundation for how people consumed their meals.
    The third chapter delves into the domestic sphere, specifically the kitchen and dining room, to explore how culinary philosophies were cultivated within households. It considers the role of domestic labour and culinary literature in bridging the gap between different social classes, fostering understanding, and breaking down barriers. Through these interactions, a cohesive identity and essence of middling cuisine were constructed.
    This thesis draws upon various research fields, including class studies, agricultural history, legal frameworks, and literary sources, to comprehensively analyze the context surrounding the emergence of culinary practices. It underscores the importance of recognizing the complexity of cultural formation and the diverse roles and influences that shape it.
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    期刊論文
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    2. Bickham, Troy. “Eating the Empire: Intersections of Food, Cookery and Imperialism in Eighteenth-Century Britain.” Past & Present, 198 (2008): 73.
    3. Cambridge University Press (eds.). “The Agricultural Revolution.” Medical History, 45.21 (2001): 44-60.
    4. Curran, R. E. “British Food and Drug Law—A History.” Food, Drug, Cosmetic Law Journal, 6.4 (1951): 250.
    5. Dashwood, Rita and Karen Lipsedge. “Women and Property in the Long Eighteenth Century.” Journal of Eighteenth-Century Studies, 44.4 (2021): 335-341.
    6. Dodds, Madeline Hope. “The Rival Cooks: Hannah Glasse and Ann Cook.” Archaeologia Aeliana, 4.15 (1938): 43-68.
    7. Earle, Peter. “The Female Labour Market in London in the Late Seventeenth and Early Eighteenth Centuries.” Economic History Review, 42.3 (1989): 341-342.
    8. Erickson, Amy Louise. “Married Women’s Occupations in Eighteenth-century London.” Continuity and Change, 23.2 (2008): 267-307.
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    10. Floyd, Janet. “Coming out of the Kitchen: Texts, Contexts and Debates.” Cultural Geographies, 11.1 (2004): 61-73.
    11. Fussell, George E. and Constance Goodman. “The Eighteenth-Century Traffic in Milk Products.” Economic History, 3.12 (February, 1937): 380-387.
    12. Fussell, George E. “Animal Husbandry in Eighteenth Century England: Part 1.” Agricultural History, 11.2 (1937): 107-108.
    13. Greene, Richard. “Mary Leapor: The Problem of Personal Identity.” The Eighteenth Century, 42.3, Eighteenth-Century Laboring-Class Poets (Fall 2001): 218-227.
    14. Griffin, E. “Diets, Hunger and Living Standards During the British Industrial Revolution.” Past and Present. 239.1 (2018): 71-111.
    15. Harris, Abram. “Pure Capitalism and the Disappearance of the Middle Class.” Journal of Political Economy, 47.3 (June 1939): 328-356.
    16. Hay, Douglas. “Patronage, Paternalism, and Welfare: Masters, Workers, and Magistrates in Eighteenth-Century England.” International Labor and Working-Class History, 53, Patronage, Paternalism, and Company Welfare (Spring, 1998): 27-48.
    17. Higginson, J. H. “Dame schools.” British Journal of Educational Studies, 22.2 (1974): 166–181.
    18. Holmes, Geoffrey. “Gregory King and the Social Structure of Pre-Industrial England.” Transactions of the Royal Statistical Society, 5th Series 27 (1977): 41-68.
    19. Jefferson, Mark. “The Law of the Primate City.” Geographical Review, 29.2 (1939): 226-232.
    20. Knoll, Martin. “Hunting in the Eighteenth Century. An Environmental History Perspective.” Historical Social Research, 29.3 (2004): 9-36.
    21. Langer, William L. “American Foods and Europe’s Population Growth 1750–1850.” Journal of Social History, 8.2 (1975): 56-58.
    22. Laslett, Peter. “Size and Structure of the Household in England over Three Centuries.” Population Studies, 23 (1969): 199-223.
    23. Lehmann, Gilly. “Politics in the Kitchen.” Eighteenth-Century Life, 23.2 (1999): 71-83.
    24. Lindert, Peter and Jeffrey Williamson. “Revising England’s Social Tables 1688-1812.” Explorations in Economic History, 19 (1982): 395-397.
    25. Lorch, J. “The Natural System in Biology.” Philosophy of Science, 28.3 (1961): 282-295.
    26. Manning, Roger. “Unlawful Hunting in England, 1500-1640.” Forest and Conservation History, 38.1 (1994): 16-23.
    27. Meyer, William. “Urban Primacy before Mark Jefferson.” Geographical Review, 109.1 (2019): 131-145.
    28. O’Brien, Patrick. “Agriculture and Industrial Revolution.” Economic History Review, 2nd series XXX (1977): 169.
    29. Purslow, Frank. “The Hammond Brothers’ Folk Song Collection.” Folk Music Journal, 1.4 (1968): 245-246.
    30. Smith, Colin. “The Wholesale and Retail Markets of London, 1660-1840.” The Economic History Review, 55.1 (2002): 31-50.
    31. Sturgess, R. W. “The Agricultural Revolution on the English Clays.” The Agricultural History Review, 14.2 (1966): 104-105.
    32. Styles, John. “Product Innovation in Early Modern London.” Past and Present, 168 (2000): 124-169.
    33. Thomas, William. “Pursuing Wild Symbols of Privilege.” American Bar Foundation Research Journal, 8.2 (1983): 481-489.
    34. Ungar, Peter. “The Trouble with Teeth.” Scientific American, 322.4 (April 2020): 44-49.
    35. 郭志,〈《新教倫理與資本主義精神》的當代意義〉,《二十一世紀雙月刊》,179.6 (2020): 33-43。

    學位論文
    1. Hsiao, Chihyin. “Owning China: The Material Life of London Tradesmen 1700-0750.” Doctoral Thesis, University of Glasgow (2018).
    2. Smith, Colin. “The Market Place and the Market’s Place in London, c. 1660-1840.” Doctoral Thesis, University of London (1999).
    3. Weiss, Victoria A. “Food and the Master-Servant Relationship in Eighteenth and Nineteenth-Century Britain.” Master’s Thesis, University of North Texas (2017).
    4. 許奕辰,〈近代早期英格蘭咖啡館的禮儀文化〉,台北:國立政治大學歷史學系研究所碩士論文(2012),46-47。

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    11. Unknow. Certain City Macaronies, Drinking Asses Milk, 1760.
    Description: 碩士
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